This crochet dragon pattern free Dragon Eye Towel Topper is a fun and magical free crochet pattern by Nana’s Crafty Home!

I recently showcased the Dragon Eye Pillow free crochet pattern by Hooked by Kati.  I made this gorgeous crochet dragon pattern free pattern for my granddaughter’s birthday.  I fell in love with the design and had some yarn left over.

So I reached out to my good friend Kati and asked her if I could design a homage crochet towel topper that would mimic her crochet dragon eye pillow.  She thought it was a great idea and I couldn’t wait to get started!

Frankly I am starting to feel like I could turn anything into a towel topper at this point. I guess that will be my super power!

Crochet Dragon Pattern Free Towel Topper pattern Details

I have many, many fun towel toppers on my blog and ALL of my towel topper patterns could be tackled by an adventurous beginner.  I would say this towel topper is going to be a little more adventurous than my previous towel topper designs.  However, it is a small and quick project and a great way to practice some additional skills.

The base of my Dragon Eye Towel Topper begins with my standard base using my pattern for a perfect round single crochet circle.  

My towel topper designs utilize a hidden 3″ ring* which allows the towel to be removable.  I purchase my rings from Amazon* but you can substitute with inexpensive plastic shower rings, wood rings or even elastic hair ties.  All have been used successfully by other makers.

*This post contains affiliate links.  You can click on any yarn or material highlighted to purchase.  I will receive a small commission if you purchase but it won’t cost you any extra!  As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

I am using the left over yarn from the Dragon Eye Pillow that I made from Kati’s free pattern which is the economical worsted weight yarn Big Twist Value yarn with a bit of Red Heart Super Saver.  However, you could certainly use any worsted weight yarn you have on hand – a great project for your yarn scraps!

I have a complete photo and video tutorial for how to make a perfect round circle which will help you work through the front and back panels.  The only variation in the back panel is working a few single crochet stitches in round 6 OVER the craft ring.

The eye is made separately with the eyelids worked into the edges of the eyeball. The eye slit is embroidered on at the end before the entire eye piece is sewn to the front panel – very little sewing needed! Then the panels are assembled together, slip stitched together and then add the hanging tab.

Then I found the perfect kitchen towel to pair with my crochet dragon eye towel topper on Amazon! The Dragon Scales kitchen towel is vibrant and would pair well with any color you would use for the towel topper!

This crochet dragon towel topper pattern is also available as an ad-free, printable PDF!  You can purchase the individual pattern, or if you love PDFs, you might want to check out my Lifetime Membership. It’s an awesome deal! Never pay for one of my PDFs again!! (Or, scroll down for the free version!)

Purchase the ad-free pdf of the Dragon Eye Towel Topper crochet pattern for a small fee.  Thank you so much for supporting my work!

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You may also like the following free crochet patterns:

• 1. Unicorn Scarf free crochet pattern
• 2. Dragon Eye Pillow pattern review
• 3. Black Cat & Spider Towel Topper free crochet pattern

Dragon Eye Towel Topper free crochet pattern instructions

Pattern written in US crochet terminology

Supplies:

• Big Twist Value, Weight 4 / Medium (100% acrylic, 7 oz / 364 yds)
•     Wine 1.1 oz / 55 yds (Wine)
•     Orange 0.05 oz / 2 yds (Orange)
•     Varsity Gold 0.05 oz / 2 yds (Gold)
•     Cream 0.05 oz / 2 yds (Cream)
•     Black 0.01 oz / 0.5 yds (Black)
• Red Heart Super Saver, Weight 4 / Medium (100% acrylic, 7 oz / 364 yds)
• Cornmeal 0.2 oz / 7 yds (Yellow)    

Size J (6.0 mm) crochet hook
1 – 3” plastic ring
1 – 3/4” button
Embroidery floss for sewing on button
Optional: small amount of polyfil stuffing for eyeball
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Stitch Markers

Approximate finished size:  5” round (not including towel)

Gauge: 5” = 9 rounds of sc

Abbreviations:

• WS = wrong side
• RS = right side
• MC = magic circle
• ch(s) = chain(s)
• sc = single crochet
• sl st = slip stitch
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• sk = skip
• sp = space
• SP-2 = spike stitch two rows below (see special stitches section below)
• pc = popcorn (see special stitches section below)
• yo = yarn over

Special Stitches:

SP-2: Insert hook below sc from 2 rows below your hook (current row counts as row 1), yo, draw up a loop even with the loop on your hook (2 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 2 loops on hook.

pc (popcorn):  (3, 4 or 5) dc sts in same st, drop loop from hook, insert hook into top of first dc made, place dropped loop on hook and pull loop through st.  When changing colors at the end of the pc, yarn over with new color and draw through both loops to close popcorn.

Recommended Tutorials:

How to crochet a perfect SC circle

Popcorn Stitch Tutorial – how to change colors

Pattern Notes:

• Work in continuous rounds, do not join, instead use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round. 
• Towel topper is worked in two panels which are then joined together at the end.
• Plastic ring is crocheted over while working back panel.

Front Panel

Round 1: (RS) With wine, make a MC, ch 1, 6 sc in MC.  (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st.  (12)

Round 3: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st,* repeat from * to * to end. (18)

Round 4: 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, *1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st* repeat from * to * to last st, 1 sc in last st.  (24)

Round 5: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts,* repeat from * to * to end. (30)

Round 6: 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, *1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st,* repeat from * to * to last 2 sts, 1 sc in last 2 sts.  (36)

Round 7: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts,* repeat from * to * to end.  (42)

Round 8: 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, *1 sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st,* repeat from * to * to last 3 sts, 1 sc in last 3 sts.  (48)

Round 9: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 7 sts,* repeat from * to * to end, sl st to first st.  (54)

Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Back Panel

Round 1 – 5: Repeat rounds 1 – 5 of Front Panel.

Round 6: Repeat round 6 of Front Panel, except work the first 5 sc stitches over the plastic ring. See Photo 1 & 2 at bottom of PDF Note:  Keep ring to WS of panel. 

Round 7 – 9: Repeat rounds 7 – 9 of Front Panel. 

Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Eye

Round 1: (RS) With orange, make a MC, ch 1, 6 sc in MC.  (6)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st.  Switch to gold.  (12)

Fasten off orange.

Round 3: *2 sc in next st, SP-2 in next,* repeat from * to * to end. Switch to  yellow. (18)

Fasten off gold.

Round 4: 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, *1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st* repeat from * to * to last st, 1 sc in last st.  (24)

Round 5: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts,* repeat from * to * to end. (30)

Fasten off yellow, leaving a long tail for sewing.  Weave in remaining ends.

Upper Eyelid

With wine, ch 15.

Row 1: Sc in second ch and in each ch to end. Turn. (14)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st to end. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, fold work in half longways, working through next st and unused loop from foundation ch; sc in each st. Turn. (14)

Row 4: Ch 1, holding RS of eye behind work and working through both layers, sc next 10 sts, leave last 4 sts of eyelid unworked. Turn. (10)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st to end. Turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next st, switch to cream and carry wine, 5 dc pc in next st, switch to wine and carry cream, sc in next 2 sts, switch to cream and carry wine, 4 dc pc in next st, switch to wine and carry cream, sc in next 2 sts, switch to cream and carry wine, 3 dc pc in next st, switch to wine and fasten off cream, 1 sc in last st. Turn. (10)

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each st to end. Turn.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

With RS of eye facing, count 5 sts down the left side.  Place marker in 5th st. Count 4 sts down the right side. Place marker in 4th st.

Lower Eyelid 

With wine, ch 20.

Row 1: Sc in second ch and in each ch to end. Turn. (19)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st to end. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, fold work in half longways, working through next st and unused loop from foundation ch; sc in each st. Turn. (19)

Row 4: Ch 1, sl st in next 3 sts, holding RS of eye behind work and working through both layers, aligning sts between markers with lower eyelid; sc next 13 sts, leave last 3 sts of eyelid unworked. Turn. (16)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Eye slit

With a long length of black yarn on needle, embroider slit on RS of eyeball, making a knot in the center of the slit.  Make sure that each end of the slit goes under each eyelid.

Hanging Tab

Row 1:  With wine, (leaving a long tail for sewing), ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch, turn. (4)

Row 2 – 20:  Ch 1, sc in each st, turn.  (4)

Row 21 (button hole row):  Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, sc in last st. Turn. (2 st + 2 ch) 

Row 22:  Ch 1, sc in first st, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, 1 sc in last st. (4)

Fasten off.  Weave in end.

With embroidery thread, sew button to non-button hole end of tab.

With long tail left for sewing, sew button side of tab at top RS of back panel.  Weave in end.

Assembly

With long lengths of yarn, sew eye to RS of front panel. Optional: add a small amount of polyfil stuffing under eyeball before sewing to panel.

With WS of panels facing (ring to inside of panels, open part of ring at bottom of face), use stitch markers to count 34 sts from one side of panel to the other.  Be sure that the stitch markers are evenly spaced and that the top part of the ring is at the top part of the panels. Attach front and back panels together with stitch markers through both panels.  With wine, attach yarn at first stitch marker, sl st in each st through both front and back panels to next stitch marker.  (34 st) 

Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

With long tail, sew hanging tab to top of back panel.

Weave in remaining ends.

Photo 1: 

Photo 2: 

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